The Monitor
Lunch Break ~ Where should you go for lunch?

Lunch at Peppo’s Urban Cafe

May 11th, 2012, 10:30 am by

Maybe my taste buds took a day off, I don’t know. Somehow though, I wasn’t able to detect some of the spices used in the food I tried recently at Peppo’s Urban Cafe in McAllen.

The cuisine isn’t quite Italian, Latin, French or American, rather it’s a combination of all four.

I try not to make snap judgments based on appearance, so I ignored that the restaurant is a part of a strip mall. As soon as I passed over the door’s threshold, I felt at ease. The warm tones in the tile, art and other decor were lovely and welcoming. There’s nothing pretentious about Peppo’s.

Also, the menu is really affordable, and the lunch specials at Peppo’s are extra affordable ($6.99). In fact, my appetizer cost more than my meal.

After my roommate Adam and I sat down, a server greeted us, asked if we had been before and when we answered no, she said she’d be back with samples.

She quickly returned with small cups of cucumber mint lemonade and strawberry lemonade. Both fresh squeezed drinks were delicious.

We placed an order for an appetizer and lunch. Here’s one of the awesome things about our server: she timed everything perfectly. From app to lunch to drink refills, everything was staggered well. Pretty sure she watched us like hawk throughout our meal, but I never felt like her eyes were on us.

So the fish tacos recipe must have changed over the year because what we were served was not at all what I expected from the menu’s description (fried fish, shredded cabbage, special sauce). The tilapia filets were marinated in something that was subtle and tasted great and it was served with a side of shredded lettuce, a tomato slice (what was I supposed to do with that anyway?) and cheese (as a garnish, perhaps?). Two sauces were served on the side. The mayo-based one tasted slightly smoky and earthy. The salsa was savory with a little tomato flavor, but mostly the peppers came through, and it was spicy.

Adam was in the mood for a classic American dish, with a twist, so he chose the Mexican burger. It came piled high with ham, bits of bacon, cheese, avocado and chipotle mayonnaise (and lettuce, tomato and onion). While the meat was full of flavor, it was also a bit dried out. Serving it with avocado and mayo seems redundant — I’d prefer one or the other. (The fries are just fries.)

I chose the Chipotle Chicken panini lunch special. It came with a side of Caesar’s salad and a cup of soup. The half of a sandwich is a messy ordeal. Slices of chicken slathered in chipotle mayo slide out of the top, bottom and sides of the toasted bread. I ended up eating most of the chicken with my fork. That said, it was tasty.

My soup was supposed to be the tomato bisque, but instead I was given the soup du jour, which was beef and cheddar. I was fine with that. Two small meatballs floated in a creamy, thick and cheesy soup. To me though, the soup tasted like, well, kind of like a B.L.T. in liquid form. That is to say it was awesome. A bit rich though.

Our server brought us a sample of the tomato bisque later, and I could absolutely eat a whole bowl of it, if served with a big piece of crusty bread. Imagine tomato soup elevated by fresh Parmesan, bits of pancetta (I’m guessing here, but I could swear I tasted it), fresh basil and olive oil. There’s also a touch of cream or a roux in the soup, I think, which adds even more richness.

In fact, most of what we ate had that common thread — richness. Whether it was cream in the soup or mayo on seemingly everything, the menu is rich. I’d like to swap the chipotle mayo for a chipotle sour cream or something. The mayo sort of weighed everything down.

I think I’ll try Peppo’s for dinner sometime, and I’ll be sure to save room for dessert — especially when panna cotta is on the menu!

(Peppo’s Urban Cafe, 3503 N. Ware Road, McAllen; (956) 800-1158)

Lunch at Caro’s

May 4th, 2012, 10:00 am by

Whenever I cover an assignment outside of McAllen, I scout around for a restaurant I haven’t tried before for my lunch reviews.

Recently, I was just outside of Rio Grande City and a photographer who came with me suggested I try the “puffy” tacos at Caro’s. If only I’d taken his advice …

Caro’s, 607 W. 2nd Street, Rio Grande City, has been around since 1937 (though they did move to a new building a few years ago), so the restaurant should know its Tex-Mex, right?

Since the restaurant is famous for its puffed tacos, and I knew Gabe was going to order a plate of the chicken tacos, I decided to try a combo plate which featured four different items.

To start though, we tried the “tostados.” Six miniature fried, puffed tortillas came topped with a spoonful of guacamole. There was something fun about the two-bite appetizers. The guacamole didn’t have a lot of flavor, but the salsa roja added some freshness and a little spiciness.

As soon as my plate — no, platter — arrived, I was disappointed. (If you’re just looking to fill up, the combo portions are huge.)

From the enchilada and the entomatada to the beef taco and the chalupa, everything kind of looked … exactly alike. Unfortunately, my palate confirmed that nearly everything tasted the same, too.

The ground beef (which was stuffed into the taco, entomatada and chalupa) reminded me of a saucy chili with no beans. There was flavor, sure, but it was very muddled. At least the entomatada had some variety in flavor, but it only varied by spice — it had quite a bit of cumin. I ended up using a lot of salsa.

Gabe’s three puffed tacos with shredded chicken were much more flavorful, and the chicken was tender and juicy. The salsa roja complemented rather than covered up his dish.

Lesson learned: when someone says a place is famous for something I will believe him. I should’ve gone with the chicken puffed tacos (or at least taken Gabe up on his offer of one of his tacos).

If you’re headed northwest and you’re hungry, stop for the chicken puffed tacos Caro’s is known for — if you’re a fan of Tex-Mex, you’ll likely enjoy them.

Lunch at Universal Market and Restaurant

April 27th, 2012, 10:30 am by

Indian food remains one of those cuisines many of my friends shy away from because it seems too exotic. Most of them won’t venture into the realm of Indian food because they’ve heard it’s extremely spicy. Let’s deal with this misconception right now.

If anything, Indian dishes are packed full of flavor because, yes, they require a lot of spices. This does not necessarily equate to hot, spicy or picoso. In fact, the cooks at Universal Market and Restaurant omit a lot of the heat that’s found in many of their traditional meals.

Try the lunch buffet at Universal Market and Restaurant, located at 905 W. Dove Avenue in McAllen, and you’ll likely discover one, or several dishes, to suit your taste.

Gabe and I headed over to the restaurant to try almost everything.

I was drawn to the bright red hue of the tandoori chicken, which gets its color from a mix of spices such as cayenne pepper and paprika. It was tender (probably because it’s marinated in yogurt) and smoky.

Gabe preferred the chicken vindaloo, which was melt-in-your-mouth tender, savory and full of tang from spices like garlic, tumeric, ginger, cumin, probably some cinnamon and cloves.

I will always enjoy the chicken tikka masala, which tastes like a creamy, spicy tomato sauce topped with fresh cilantro. This is a great starter dish for someone who’s a bit nervous about trying Indian food.

The restaurant also serves a few vegetarian dishes, including a savory mixed vegetable entree, Palak paneer (I think) and a pea dish. (Keep in mind it’s a buffet and the restaurant’s offerings change daily.)

The Palak paneer combines an unaged cheese which does not melt, smothered in what tasted to me like creamed spinach. It was rich and delicious.

Gabe went back for seconds on the peas, which were served in a spicy red sauce kind of like the masala sauce. The earthy flavors and spiciness of the chiles were balanced well with the sweetness of the peas.

Even the rice, naan, rice crackers and pakora were delicious.

And we had to save room for a bite of rasgulla. The dessert combines cheese, flour and sugar, and then it’s fried and served in a very sweet syrup. The soft donut-like ball has a savory flavor which balances well with the syrup.

Be adventurous.

Lunch at Le Lai

April 20th, 2012, 10:30 am by

I’ve made it clear I didn’t grow up in the Valley, so I rely on native Valleyites to offer suggestions on restaurants they love. Sure, I stumble upon some great finds on my own, but I love the stories that typically come with why people love combo plate #42.

My editor, Brandon Garcia, told me his favorite place for Asian cuisine is Le Lai, located at 2901 N. 10th Street in McAllen. So I headed over to try their lunch special.

The atmosphere is hardly worth mentioning because smack dab in the middle of the wall near the kitchen hangs a big flat screen TV tuned to ESPN. So if you’re looking for lunch and sports updates, this place is good as any other neighborhood restaurant.

Service was fast and friendly, and I was very happy to have a server who knew the menu well enough to help me decide between spring rolls and summer rolls.

Adam and I chose the Vietnamese spring rolls as an appetizer. It’s almost impossible to compare Le Lai’s spring rolls and the ones I’ve eaten at Hop Tung — they were nearly identical. Hot and fresh, served with cool leaves of lettuce, cilantro and a sweet and sour dipping sauce. Very tasty.

The lunch special comes with a bowl of soup, rice, entree and a fried wonton. It’s an affordable option for lunch, too.

Le Lai’s hot and sour soup had just the right balance in flavors, though I would preferred more mushrooms in my bowl.

I went with the chicken and mixed vegetables, but I had them add some red peppers to mine. The brown sauce was savory and spicy, and the entree was full of tender chicken, broccoli, mushrooms, snow peas, carrots and cabbage. While I enjoyed the earthy flavors, the vegetables seemed a little overcooked and overall it lacked depth of flavors.

Adam wanted to try the chicken and cashew dish, also spicy. His entree was made with the same brown sauce, but it was sweeter — likely due to the red bell pepper and cashew nuts. If Adam hadn’t liked his so much I would’ve traded.

The dinner menu has so much variety and covers so many different types of Asian foods, I feel like I need to go back to try the pho, sate and other dishes. And if you’re looking for a specific recommendation, my editor said the Thai fried rice is the best.

Lunch at Gonzales Burgers

April 13th, 2012, 7:58 pm by

How is it that Gonzales Burgers, located at 1309 Silver Avenue in Donna, has not been featured on “Diners, Drive-ins and Dives”?

For years, I’ve heard about Gonzales Burgers, the burger joint which opens only four hours per day, has no sign on its building and has advertised strictly by word of mouth.

Most locals know the story, but here’s the summary: In the ’50s, the Gonzales family’s grocery store in Donna began to serve burgers and fries to locals when competing with grocery giant H-E-B wasn’t working. Since then, the family has continued in the burger business. (Read the full story here.)

Because people tend to line up at 10:30 a.m., Pam and I left for lunch early. It’s something to keep in mind if you only have an hour for lunch. Although once spring hits, most of the Winter Texan crowd has migrated north and you likely won’t wait in line for hours.

If you don’t order your burger to-go, make sure you like people because you’ll be getting cozy with them in the restaurant. There are no tables for two — the eatery’s long tables seat about a dozen or so. You’ll also be sharing a roll of paper towels and salt and pepper shakers.

OK, so here’s an obligatory shot of french fries and onion rings. Are they tasty? Sure. But you could dip an old shoe in batter, fry it and if I had some ketchup, I’d probably have a bite or two. Are they homemade? I don’t think so.

And now, on to the whole reason for coming out to this place — ordering a yummy burger the size of your head.

They grind the meat daily, so this is a really fresh burger. They toast their buns and top them with mustard, lettuce, tomatoes, pickles and onions. If you’re super hungry you can ask for double patties, and maybe add some cheese and bacon.

I managed to make it through half of my burger.

Gonzales Burger will be one of those places I’ll head out to for a burger and the hospitality. Everyone behind the counter is friendly, welcoming and treats you like family.

Lunch at Sahadi’s

April 6th, 2012, 10:30 am by

Mediterranean has to be one of my favorite cuisines.

When I lived near Los Angeles, my mother and I would spend an afternoon at the farmer’s market downtown. We’d buy a gyro and a plateful of falafel to share.

Also, whenever we drove to Vegas, we’d make a stop on the way at The Mad Greek in Baker, CA.

Needless to say, I go out of my way for yummy Greek eats.

One of the few places to get a good gyro (pronounced YEER-OH) in the RGV is Sahadi Specialty Food, located at 709 N. 10th Street in McAllen.

A gyro is a pita stuffed full of a mixture of lamb and beef that’s been roasted on a vertical spit and then topped with red onion and tomato and served with a side of tzatziki sauce. Although Sahadi’s does a great job with this traditional sandwich, the sauce’s consistency is far too thick to be drizzled. As a condiment, it should be a little looser, in my opinion.

Of course, I had to order some falafel, which is ground chickpeas, spices and herbs combined and formed into balls and then fried to a golden brown. They’re a lot like hush puppies, or fritters, and typically served hot.

Unfortunately, I was given a sad version of the Greek treat. The small disks of falafel were lukewarm, at best, lacking flavor and a bit greasy, as if they had been fried in oil that wasn’t quite hot enough.

Sahadi’s also serves sandwiches and entrees which have nothing to do with Mediterranean cuisine.

The lunch special my friend and I tried this week was a pasta dish made with bacon, onions, grilled chicken, Parmesan and a spicy pomodoro sauce. I really wanted to like it, but I couldn’t get past the thick sauce coating the pasta and chicken. Also, the combination of flavors were odd. It tasted like a Thai Italian pasta.

My “Beef Bourguignon De Leon” sandwich was very good. The depth of flavors weren’t quite as pronounced as I expected in a rich French dish like this, but that’s probably for the best. Slices of tender beef and mushrooms are packed into a crusty toasted bread and then draped with melted cheese.

While I might not gamble on a lunch special that isn’t on the menu, I’ll definitely be back for what I did like: the sandwiches.

Lunch at The Republic of the Rio Grande

March 30th, 2012, 10:30 am by

Once again, lunch proves to be the best meal of the day at The Republic of the Rio Grande. Not only for the food, but the lunch special. I love being able to sample a restaurant’s menu without spending a fortune.

The restaurant has been around for years, and I’m just now getting around to trying it — par for the course. The location (1411 S. 10th Street, McAllen) could be considered both convenient and unfortunate. It’s on 10th Street, near Expressway 83, and sandwiched between a couple of fast food joints and a strip mall. Somehow The Republic manages to carve its own space out of the area and fool guests into believing it’s in a lovely secluded garden, complete with water fountain and outdoor seating.

The cuisine might be Tex-Mex at times, but then it switches over to Mediterranean and then there’s some American thrown in for good measure. For the most part, anything you choose will likely be delicious.

I decided to start with the tuna ceviche because, well, I’ve never had a tuna ceviche. Cubes of pink tuna tossed with red onion, jicima, lime, serrano peppers and cilantro served on a bed of avocado slices sounds yummy, right? It would’ve been had there been a bit more seasoning. Though the tortilla chips used as a vessel for the fish were salty enough. I expected a punch of spiciness, but the dish was seriously lacking in peppers.

The pizza lunch special has to be the greatest bargain on the menu — a bowl of soup or salad and a pizza costs only $12.

My friend Adam went with a calzone called “Pablo’s favorite.” A pocket of pizza dough comes stuffed with Monterrey jack cheese, poblano peppers, Canadian bacon, tomatoes, jalapeños and a mayo sauce. It was a bit like an elevated, spicy ham sandwich. Very tasty, and very filling. Especially when paired with a bowl of the poblano chicken chowder.

The creamy soup was loaded with poblano peppers, chicken and topped with cheese.

My tortilla soup was very satisfying, also. The traditional Mexican soup was packed full of tender shredded chicken, poblano peppers (The Republic really likes ‘em), onions, celery, avocado and tortilla strips. For me, there was just a bit too much chili powder in the soup.

The Republic does well with its unique dishes, like the goat cheese pizza. A garlicky pizza crust comes topped with goat cheese, mushrooms, walnuts and lots of fresh basil.

Next time I’ll skip the appetizer and head straight for the avocado chicken, which I’ve heard very good things about. And maybe I’ll save room for dessert because the almond taco looked very interesting — like an elevated Choco Taco.

Lunch at Hoelter’s Brisket Barn

March 23rd, 2012, 3:13 pm by

A reader once accused me of either disliking red meat or watching my diet because I didn’t review a BBQ joint’s brisket. Sometimes I just want turkey or chicken instead.

However, at Hoelter’s Brisket Barn, you better be in the mood for brisket, because if there’s one thing the new BBQ place does really, really well, it’s brisket.

“The Barn,” as it’s affectionately called by the owner, is located in a no man’s land between Mission and Alton, at 2728 E. Mile 5 Road (it’s just west of Taylor Road).

Gabe Hernandez, a photographer for “The Monitor,” joined me at the new eatery for lunch.

I chose the most popular menu item: the brisket burger. A toasted bun is piled high with finely chopped brisket, homemade barbecue sauce, onions and pickles. The small one is only $2.50, and it’s a bargain.

The “burger” is just the right amount, especially if you add a side or two to your order. The brisket is tender and slightly smoky, and with a squeeze of that sweet, savory and spicy barbecue sauce, delicious. I might get the larger size next time.

Gabe chose a combo, which included a choice of three meats and two sides. He went with the pork chops, quarter of a chicken and brisket.

The smoke really comes through on the chops and chicken, but unfortunately the pork was really dry. The same barbecue sauce saves them though. Gabe and I agreed the chicken was moist and yummy, and again that sauce could be served on anything and make it taste great.

Although the meat was generally impressive across the board, and especially the brisket, the side dishes were lacking in overall seasoning.

The potato salad tastes like potato and mayo, and little else. Charro beans are usually bursting with flavor, but the batch I tried was just OK. The owner let us know that sometimes the beans are made with the spicy sausage they serve at “The Barn.” Hopefully that will become a regular recipe. I ended up mixing my rice into my beans because the rice was just salty.

I realize “The Barn” has only been open for three weeks at this point, so kinks are being worked out. Hopefully they’ll find a groove there and make consistently great brisket and other yummy food.

Lunch at Genghis Grill

March 16th, 2012, 10:30 am by

Who doesn’t love a good stir fry? You are in control of your lunch destiny at a Mongolian BBQ joint. Well, sort of.

I decided to try the new (to the RGV, anyway) restaurant Genghis Grill, located at 2521 E. Expressway 83 (take the Shary exit) in Mission. I had already heard it described as Khan’s Grill (the local eatery most Valleyites know) and even our server made the connection when I asked what to expect.

Sure there are similarities between the two, but it all comes down to personal preference when you get to the sauces, spices, toppings and even portion size.

Genghis offers a vast assortment of proteins, veggies and sauces – almost an overwhelming amount. You get a bowl, add whatever you’d like (as long as it fits in the bowl) and then hand it to the nice grill masters who will prepare it for you. I probably should’ve stuck to the recipe cards at the beginning of the line. My boyfriend did, and his Mongo BBQ was pretty tasty.

A mix of beef, bell peppers, barbecue and “dragon” sauce worked well over steamed rice – it had just the right blend of sweet, salty and spicy.

My roommate Adam got creative and mixed a bunch of different proteins, vegetables and sauces to create a sweet and spicy (well, OK, after the chili garlic afterward, it was just spicy) flavor.

Mine had chicken, carrots, bell peppers, water chestnuts, zucchini and squash, and then it was mixed with the “dragon” and the “Khan Pao” sauces. I wasn’t impressed, but a stir fry is only as good as you make it.

As far as portion for price, Genghis doesn’t win the battle against Khan’s.

We also tried the lettuce wraps, served with a “Khanzu” sauce, which was sweet and tangy with a little heat (kind of like a ponzu sauce, if you’re familiar). All three of us agreed they mostly tasted like lettuce.

The desserts are clearly not made to order like the stir fry, but they were tasty enough. The Pomberry dessert reminded me of a fruit-flavored yogurt that’s been frozen, though it was beautiful. And the Red Velvet cake, also beautiful, had way too much cream cheese and not enough cake.

I’ll probably stick with the stir fry I know and love, but if I return to Genghis, I’ll trust their bowl recipes and avoid the extras.

Lunch at Fiorella

March 9th, 2012, 10:30 am by

I always meant to eat at Fiorella when it was located on 15th Street in McAllen. I’m not sure why I didn’t. Though late is better than never, I really was missing out on the delicious food at the restaurant, which is now located at 5401 N. 10th St. in McAllen.

The menu offers a variety of cuisines from French to Mediterranean to Italian. My roommate Adam said it best when he referred to it as world cuisine.

Fiorella offers a fine dining experience in a lovely, but somewhat casual atmosphere. Art is spotlighted in decor and in the food – many of the dishes are named for artists, and presentation is always lovely. Prices are a bit higher than a typical chain steakhouse, but having lunch at the restaurant will save you some money.

The lunch specials are $12, and they include a lunch-sized entree, soup or salad and iced tea.

At the server’s suggestion, I tried the coconut tea and Adam tried the almond tea. Both were sweet and refreshing.

Fiorella’s French onion soup is probably my favorite in McAllen. The broth was earthy, though a bit oily. The caramelized onions were tender and sweet. I think the chef used thyme in the broth. It was delicious.

Adam chose a salad with his entree, but I think he would’ve preferred the soup (even though he’s not a fan of onions). The mixed greens weren’t bitter enough to cut the sweetness of the candied walnuts and the cloyingly sweet raspberry vinaigrette (and the color was a bit unappetizing). Individually the components were tasty, but it was just too much sugar at once.

I ordered the “Princess Grace,” a sandwich made with chewy ciabatta bread, pesto, portobello mushrooms, tomatoes, cheese and prosciutto. It was served with green bean almondine. The sandwich had such a burst of fresh flavors and textures, and the thinly sliced Italian ham gave it a punch of saltiness. I could only eat half, but I finished the green beans, which were covered in garlic and perfectly cooked.

My roomie ordered the meatloaf. Yes, meatloaf. What was served could only be described as a gigantic meatball, though. It came balanced on top of a bed of pasta tossed with a light alfredo sauce and mushrooms. The “meatloaf” was moist, full of vegetables, herbs and had a wonderful flavor and texture.

I only wish I’d had room for dessert. In spite of the few misses, I will definitely be going back to Fiorella.

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